Nirekha Peak is located on the same chain as the Lobuche summits, just east of the Cho La Col, with the famous Cho-La Pass only a few hundred meters away. This peak was listed in 2006 as a new peak in Group ‘A’ trekking peaks. In April 2003 the first ascent was done by Matt Florets and Greg Valentine. The second successful ascent was done by an all-women team in October 2003.
The ascent to the Nirekha Peak is great but depending on the conditions it can be difficult to climb. Only experienced climbers should attempt this route, although it is partially set with fixed ropes. It is unclear which peak is higher which consists of two summit pyramids. Clearly, the north summit is easier but requires crossing a difficult crevasse, while the south summit requires one pitch in steep (50°) ice. The Nirekha Peak Climbing trip starts from Lukla after a 35-minute scenic flight. We then follow a common trail to Gokyo Valley. Then we head along the famous Trekking Rote Chola Pass, but from Chola Base Camp a tiny trail to the north, and just before the Glacier is the Nirekha Base Camp. From this camp to the high camp is about a 2 to 3 hours walk. Nirekha peak is one of the more difficult peaks and we need to fix ropes and ice screws. Clients need jumar because the climbing route faces the southwest and there is really hard blue ice. The Nirekha Peak summit ridge is a long way up and there are several deep crevasses but the views from here are incredible including Cho Oyu, Gyachungkhang, Pumar, Everest, Lhote, Makalu, Khangenga, Thamasherku, Tawche, Amadablam, all Khumbu Himal Cholotse, and more.
After this rich Himalayan trekking experience, the Nirekha Peak Climbing trip will end at Lukla airstrip descending through the traditional trade center of Namche Bazaar. We at “Nepal Mother House Treks & Expedition” are more than glad to design your Nirekha Peak Climbing trip with our professionally experienced climbing guides and expert staff for your complete satisfaction.